Anoop Judge
Author · Writing Instructor · Former T.V. Host

What is Amangiri? A wellness spa? A billionaire’s retreat? (Kim Kardashian famously celebrated her 37th birthday here and Miley Cyrus left a day before yours truly descended on the resort.) Is it 600 acres of the Colorado plateau that wraps around the Four Corners, the high point where Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico meet? Or, is it a land of striking eroded rock formations showcasing the 160 million-year-old geology of the Grand Staircase-Escalante?

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View from a bedroom suite

It is all that, and more.

What is now Amangiri (a Sanskrit term meaning ‘peaceful mountain’) was once federal land. A brainchild of Adrian Zecha, and belonging to the family of Aman Resorts, the Singapore-based company that specializes in developing small, exclusive resorts in off-the-beaten-path places, it required an act of Congress to build it. Even if you haven’t been here, you may have seen a glimpse of the property because it was a setting in the movie “Broken Arrow” starring John Travolta.

Exclusivity:

First, open in 2009 and now coming up on its 10-year anniversary, Amangiri has 34 suites and one private four-bedroom villa (this is where the Hollywood stars and Vegas high-rollers stay—no surprise, given that it is 10,000 per night.) But, exclusivity comes at a price. At off-season Amangiri’s lowest rate per night is $1800 bringing it to a minimum of $2200, taking fees and taxes into account, while at peak season, you can end up paying $4,000 a night. Yes, it is exorbitant, but considering it is full boarding included (breakfast, lunch, and dinner customized to meet your dietary needs) it is not as outrageous as it seems at first blush. Sadly, alcohol, treatments at the spa, and adventure experiences are excluded. You may BYOB or wine as we did, but be warned that the corkage fee is $50 per bottle.

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The dining room at Amangiri

Location:

Amangiri’s location is not remote. It’s only a 20-minute drive from the Glen Canyon dam end of Lake Powell, and a 4.5-hour drive from Las Vegas. Alternatively, you can fly to Vegas or Phoenix and then book an hour’s flight on a smaller airplane operated by Contour Airways, which lands at Page Municipal Airport. Or, I’m told that a guest can essentially charter a private jet from any starting point in the world and then land at the airport in Las Vegas. From there a helicopter will be waiting to take them on a two-hour scenic flight before landing directly at Amangiri.

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Yes, it is easily accessible by road or plane but its isolated location ensures that it doesn’t want to be found easily. Amangiri’s private access road is blocked by a mechanical barrier to keep anyone except for guests out of the grounds. You drive for miles through the property’s meandering roads fringed by lofty sandstone mesas before catching a glimpse of the concrete buildings slotted in between the rocky landscape. It’s all part of the appeal to guests who desire a true and uninterrupted escape.

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Is it worth it?

What is it like staying at one of the most expensive hotels in the world where the rich and famous casually stay? Says Manpreet Sidhu, Assistant General Manager at the resort, “The future of the hotel industry is experiential travel where guests don’t just stay in a room but have a curated experience. The difference at Aman is the luxury touchpoints. With only 34 rooms we can focus on each guest. We know you. We know your dietary preferences. You’re part of the family.”

And indeed, upon arrival at the airport, we are picked up in a luxury car and chauffeur provided by the resort. At the reception, our bags are whisked off, and we are offered a hot towel and a refreshing mint drink. That sets the tone for a sublime experience. From the enormous pool curved around a muscular bullnose outcrop of native rock to dimly candle-lit interior and exterior walkways that look out to desert vistas, no one bothers you. The food is spectacular. All menu options include locally sourced and sustainable farmed offerings—elk sausage, anyone? Included in the price are daily hikes, yoga and tai-chi classes and activities such as making smores at night time and Navajo dances by the poolside. Also free to use: Amangiri’s fleet of BMW’ s—we borrowed one for four hours to drive to our destination for the Antelope Canyon tour. Bonus: the kitchen packed us individual lunches and drinks.

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The Negatives:

  1. The menu changes only four times a year. Don’t get me wrong, the food is amazing (one offering not to miss is the cast-iron pancakes!) but, for lunch and dinner there are only a handful of options.

  2. if you like to explore museums and do touristy things on vacation this might not be for you. If you want to go away and re-charge this should be on your bucket list. And, leave the kids at home. This is Utah, not New York city!

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At Antelope Canyon

Activities Galore:

Amangiri is within easy reach of some of the greatest concentration of National Parks and National Monuments in the country, including the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park and Monument Valley. Side trips to Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend are spectacular and just next door. There is also horseback riding, hot-air ballooning and coming in 2020—high-end glamping (estimated cost: a whopping $4,500!)

Visiting Amangiri is a no-brainer. Just go!

Anoop Judge is a blogger and an author, who’s lived in the San Francisco-Bay Area for her entire adult life. As an Indian-American writer, her goal is to discuss the diaspora of Indian people in the context of twenty-first century America.